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Wednesday, November 25, 2015

trumeau, trumel or toumeaulx


In Scully's translation of The Viandier he discusses four manuscripts, all variations on the original. In the edition from the Mazarine Library in Paris there is a folio excerpt that he references as MAZ. Pretty simple...just like this

MAZ cuisiez tresbien toumeaulx de beuf

A little blurb from the medicinal section is a basic broth. I have made stock on several previous occasions, however I haven't ever used this cut of beef. This entry was commenced by a request for boeuf bourguignon, which I knew wasn't going to fit the requirements for this project. No tomatoes allowed. I started riffing. Looked at Pot au Feu, looked at Osso Buco, keeping in mind that beef would have been boiled at this time, braising is different than boiling. When I saw the grass fed shanks in the meat counter I knew what was going to happen.

1. Carmelized an onion in bacon fat.
2. Into crock pot added 1 cup red wine.
3. Three chopped carrots
4. Three beautifully marbled beef shanks
5. Crock pot for six hours.

The falling off the bone, mouth watering meat was heaped on a platter. Served with roasted leek & fingerling potatoes. The taters weren't period either. One of these days the whole meal has to be historically accurate, this was just a by product because remember this is a suggestion for a base stock.

The actual goal was a quart of the richest most beautiful stock I have ever made. It is my hearty recommendation to use all of the beast. Even the bits that maybe aren't wrapped in plastic. There is a certain mouth feel, a layer of succulence that cooking "bone in" lends to a dish. Think about chicken salad made with boneless skinless meat VS left over from a whole roasted bird? Quite a difference in flavor. Admittedly it was odd, rather disconcerting to remember my reaction to The Human Body Exhibit in Chicago several years ago... I saw a cross section cut of a human shin. I swear to god as repulsive as it is, my literal first thought was ... "We would make good stock". I may be a big "The Walking Dead Fan" but beef shanks are close enough to address this question! The concept of what many modern eaters perceive as disgusting is quite distinct from what was seen as viable foodstuff in the fifteenth century. I plan to try other ingredients that previously I would have deemed "nasty" or "weird" (like oxtail, or fish heads) because I am here to learn!

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